I'm in the process of trying to make/"design" my polo bike, here's where I am so far.
- Frame: Scotts frame as a basis modifications of ...EVERYTHING!
- Headset: Integrated?
- Forks: Onza smart Guy #
- Brake: Front Disc Brake
- Brake Lever: Anything I can find
- Stem: ???
- Bars: Flat/not wide?
- Front Wheel: 26" x 1.75 Rim#, Kojak 2.00 #
- Back wheel: 26" 135mm, non-dished, accepts freewheel, Kojak 1.35#
- ChainRing: 35T or 36T 3/32 104 BCD
- Sprocket: 22T Freewheel 3/32#
- Chain: 3/32#
- Crank Arms: 170mm#
- Pedals: Flat - DMR V8#
- Bottom Bracket: Shimano Hollowtech 2#
- SeatPost: ???
- Seat: ???
- Wheel Cover: One on front#/Back mallet side?
Anything missing?
any comments/advice would be awesome.
Smallest on a 110mm BCD (5 arm) is 33T. 104mm BCD (4-arm MTB) would fit a 32T(Common) or 31T(rare/expensive).
I'm using 38/22 on a 26x1.35 tyre, but I used 32/21 a year ago.
I'll probably get a 26x1.35 kojak on the back then, want to sell me your wheel? Does anywhere sell 26" rear wheel non dished that accepts a freewheel? Can't find one :(
Cranks wise:
What about the 150mm here?
http://www.thun.de/en/products/cranksets/
Reasoning for tiny cranks and not getting a cassette hub at the back?
Nowt wrong with a cassette hub wheel if it's built right.
Bigger tyre at front will mean more toe overlap. Small cranks mean I can account for that overlap and bring wheelbase of frame in slightly. Also pretty much 0 chance of pedal strike.
Non-dished wheel is slightly stronger and I think spoke loss is less important on it. I can maybe add a second gear to other side of wheel for normal riding anyway, (if that will ever happen on that bike).
Why the bigger front tyre then?
Don't get 150 cranks mate your height you should have at Least 175 mine are 185!
I'd go for a casette wheel too also if it were me I'd see of they could do these too
http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11...
150 is like kids cranks, I'd have thought they'd feel a bit weird as you're not a short fellow, stick to longer ones I reckon and just keep the frame a little longer, it's already pretty short.
I read on a schwalbe pdf somewhere that I can't find that at speeds of around 20 km/h (typical polo speed) the ride is better with wider tires, both have near identical rolling resistance (assuming the thinner tyre has higher pressure), 100g of extra weight on front shouldn't affect acceleration as much as wide rear tyre, also I think I should be able to balance better while standing + lean more smoothly in a turn.
It's only an inch! This pdf helped me decide on 150mm :) http://www.powercranks.com/assets/pdfs/Performance_Products_-_Exploring_...
More like 2 inches as you've got both cranks... Surely longer cranks give you better balance with a longer stance...
May as well get a Q-ring to smooth out your pedal stroke.
It'll be an odd motion turning little circles.
2 inches diameter yeh. Balance wise....no idea what difference it would make, distance between feet on the pedals horizontally would only give balance in that axis (which doesn't really matter at all), and vertically there's even less to gain in that axis, I think pedal width would make more difference for a wider stance for balance?
EDIT: Too wide stance on pedals while pedalling would definite put you off balance but at low/zero speed I guess you could reposition your feet for a much better balance temporarily.
You could get away with a lower BB which could help balance.
Oooh that would be cool, so..up to 20mm lower BB? and 5mm shorter wheelbase are potential things to have?
If I can't find a cheap rear wheel that's not dished I'll probably go cassette. Is a freehub wheel a viable option?
I think your going backwards abit here mate, we all used to have low BB stock frames so had to have short cranks, now people have custom frames with a higher BB we can have normal cranks and not get pedal strike, there's a reason nobody else used any shorter than 165 it reduces your pedaling power
If I get a front wheel with a disc mount can I attach a freewheel to it and use it as a back wheel?
No.
Attach it how?!
Zipties.
From the reading I've done it only reduces pedalling power if you don't change the gearing to accommodate for it as gearing is one lever, cranks are another, if you change one lever to achieve the same effective leverage with the same force you need to change the other.
Nevermind! I was looking at this fixed gear conversion thing http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopdisc.html
You can run a spinnier gear to compensate, but it's still odd, reading the stuff you posted it seems like it would be good for aiding aero positions but little else, and you are still going to have to do more pedal revolutions to reach the same speed as someone else due to your lower GI. I think we're all spinning enough as it is.
That's true, I do need to be slightly more spinny to achieve the same speed but my legs would also not be moving as far to achieve the increased spinningness, I think I might buy the 150mm cranks just to try them out (they're pretty damn cheap anyway) and see what it's like. Then change my build to compensate if they turn out shit.
Things like charging and getting a jump on someone with one big push of the pedals would be harder, you wouldn't get as much distance off that one big push.
If your bike is more normal, you can borrow a wheel, chainring or whatever if something breaks.
My spare polo wheels are Mavic F219 on an On-One Inbred 135mm rear hub and a SunnRingle DiscJockey front 6-bolt hub. The rims are disc only and the rear hub is threaded both sides. I'd need to work out what they're worth but I can get you pics if you like. The front has a cover on it too.
I just wrote a big paragraph explaining why that is stupid, but realised I shouldnt really have to explain why that is stupid and I'll just stick to saying that is a stupid idea.
BTW there is smart guy forks on ebay auction starting cheap. should be just what you want. light alloy trials forks.
Here is the most recent frame geo:
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/R1nc3w1nd/frametable_zps80800a10.jpg
What I would change:
1cm off rear, 2cm if youre running 1.35 kojaks. Possibly add that to the front end. It's not all about short wheel base, remember.
If you're going to be running 170+mm cranks and flat pedals instead of spds take 5mm off the BB drop.
I'm guessing the 150mm is what is stupid? I think I'm gunna try out 150mm on my shitty bike even if it is stupid just for reference/laughs (it's the only part I've had basically zero variation on),I guess they're way off trend :) By the vast majority of opinion it looks like a very bad idea!
I'll try and get those forks!
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